Day 37 – Farewell Sweden, hello Denmark

Ystad is a cute little place, feeling more Danish than Swedish with a nice little market square and houses reminiscent of the island of Bornholm, which is only 50 miles away, a distance the superfast (and super scary) ferries do in about ninety minutes. 

We left Ystad into a headwind, with a high mackerel sky, which by now is a familiar story.  Hours of battering into lumpy seas motor-sailing our way out of Sweden. 

Sunshine and passing ships broke up the monotony, as ships were a rarity in the archipelago.  Now we’re back in the main Baltic, right alongside the deep water channel, they’ve returned.  Bulk carriers, container ships and the ubiquitous ferries.

Our departure from Swedish waters, into those of the Danish, meant our first changing over of our courtesy flags in somewhile. Andrew, as always, did the honours.

The journey meant we sailed close to the Cliffs of Mons – possibly the closest Denmark has to the white cliffs of Dover, and seemingly quite a tourist attraction on the island of Mons. It is perhaps the highest natural form we’d seen since leaving the UK.

Arriving in Klintholm, on the island of Møn entailed threading through fish stakes, a narrow shallow entrance and berthing alongside in the area reserved for 12-15m boats. 

An alongside berth next to the electricity with the pontoon the same height as our deck.  We paid at the self service machine beside the closed harbour office – which appeared to only open for an hour or so at the weekend.

A kiosk selling Magnum ice creams, late summer sun and fresh Danish pastry for breakfast tomorrow.  We marvelled at the bravery of the lady in the small ‘mini brugsen’ shop who had to put her hand into the glass cabinet abuzz with wasps covering the jammy pastries.

Watching the sun go down, and the house martins swirling round, we caught up with some admin, and watched as the harbour slowly filled with boats.

Our daily stats

Motor sailing means straight line sailing – from Ystad, Sweden to Klintsholm, Denmark

We made 57 nautical miles in 9 and a half hours, averaging 6 knots.  We motor sailed the whole way, using 8 gallons of fuel.

You can hear more in Episode 33 – Wiggling through Denmark of our ‘Two in Boat’ podcast.

Day 36 – Dodging waterspouts

Leaving Utklippan

We stopped at Utklippan because the weather was rubbish, the temperature about to drop to 8 degrees overnight and Andrew didn’t want to sit in the cockpit for 8hrs slamming into huge waves.  It was a success.  The weather had abated the next morning and we resumed our homeward journey, with a pre-dawn 5am start.

It is a beautiful time of day to be out sailing, as you watch the sun slowly rising over the horizon. Nature is truly stunning when you are surrounded by it.

Although not completely, as we were surrounded at one point, by water spouts. This was the first time we’ve ever come across this natural phenomena, and it was a little bit scary. We decided to err on the side of caution and to give them a wide berth. They were amazing to watch as the grew and faded, and then were replaced by another somewhere else.

Suzanne took a watch, fussing over the sails and trying to extract every fraction of knot from the boat, making for a fast close reach to our destination. Fast ferries leaving and entering the harbour meant a  nerve-wracking quick nip across the main fairway between the comings and goings.  Rounding up to drop the main she piloted us into the harbour for Andrew to berth, ably assisted by two Danish chaps delivering their newly acquired second-hand Moody 33 back to Denmark after a purchase in Sweden.

Ystad, apparently pronounced “oostad, is a lovely place, a nice little guest harbour with a machine to pay for your stay automatically, which gives you as little card to access the showers, electricity and other facilities.  Wonderfully efficient, quick and convenient.  It’s a wonder more UK marinas don’t adopt it…

We pottered up to town to get fresh supplies, dodging the purples trains, as we waited at the level crossing.

Our daily stats

78 nautical miles, 10hrs of motor-sailing and 4hrs of real sailing got us there in 14 hrs, averaging 5.6 knots, a creditable performance considering the wind didn’t play ball and there was still a residual swell from the day before. We used 9 gallons of fuel.

You can hear more on our podcast – download episode 33 – Wiggling through Denmark.