Day 30: ‘Scaping Stockholm

Day 30: Tuesday 13 August 2019 – sailing the swedish archipelago – fa

It was the 13 August, luckily not a Friday.

After putting, not enough at it turns out, water in our tanks, we squeezed our way out from between two other rally yachts.  Unfortunately one of those yachts untied and then dropped one of their fenders, when trying to make our exit easier, which resulted in their captain putting her head down between our two boats to retrieve it – as we were reversing.  Scary.

We then refuelled at possibly one of slickest fuels stops ever.  A row of different pumps almost confused Andrew – and the two young men who came out to attach their lines made Angela and Suzanne redundant with their mid ships and stern lines in hand.  Our first time sailing with crew, and our first berthing was a doddle. What service.

This all meant we left Stockholm a little later than anticipated.   We pushed south into the archipelago.  A really nice sail out of the city turned into an uneventful and grinding motorsail into the wind and a choppy sea even as we opted to stay on the inside as much as possible.  Gradually we found the lee of some islands and wiggled through to Nynashamn, bypassing the anchorage and tieing up in the marina.  

We chose the marina rather than anchoring due to a raw water pump that was doing it’s best to turn to spray seawater all over Crystelle Venture’s engine bay.  A quick nip of the centre gland and engine check proved a new pump, strip down or repack wasn’t required.  

Berthing was to booms, a strange invention that requires the boat to nose up to the pontoon while tieing to light floating booms either side.  Not pontoons, as you can’t walk on them.  The trick as we found is to pick booms only slightly wider than the boat.  And these were only slightly wider, needing a firm push to wedge the boat in and then a firmer push to get fenders in.  On leaving we needed to engine reverse out rather than drift back with the wind, as we were tightly held even without ropes in place…

A great marina, with clean facilities including a free sauna.  Definitely somewhere we could have spent longer, although the town was fairly small and without too much character – although their church was light up like a candle and rang out hits bells pretty frequently.

Nynashamn also has a fantastic smoke house on the harbour front. Great selection of cheese and smoked fish – even had english Black Bomber cheddar cheese, which has to be one of the very best.

Smoked fish in hand we congregated in Crystelle Venture for wine, fish and salads.  Together with “the boat following”, previously known as “the boat leading” we made plans to tackle the ominous Draget Kanal the next day, with an 0800 start and a non-spraying engine.

Our daily stats

We were underway for 6 hours, with the wind gusting 5 -6 at times, motor sailing for around 35 nautical miles with roughly 5 and half hours of engine time.

The marina cost 350 Kr including electricity.

You can hear more about our time in Stockholm in our podcast Stormin Stockholm, episode 30 of our 2 in a Boat podcast.

Day 29: Messing about in Stockholm

After our disturbed night in Sandhamn , we didn’t rush to leave the marina.  We also knew that we didn’t have so far to go, as we had broken the back of the journey the day before. So we took advantage of the capacious shower blocks, had leisurely chats with other rally crews to see how they fared in the storm the night before, before releasing our lazy line about 10 am.

We motored for a couple of hours before were able to put all the sails up and make a decent 5 knots.  An enjoyable sail, with gusting force 4 South westerly wind.  Just after 1pm we noticed a small flotilla of other rally yachts starting to catch us up in the channel towards the sailing club.   However we managed to keep our pace and our position, 

Arrival into the Royal Swedish Yacht Club (KSSS) at Slotsjobaden, was a breeze.  With our technique for stern buoy berthing nailed, we executed a perfect berthing in front of the restaurant goers.  

We tidied up in preparation for our first and only crew member to join us on this trip, who arrived by train about 3pm.  We had intended to go into Stockholm for a walk round in the evening, but the train journey was longer than expected, due to engineering works.  Yes ,they also have them in Sweden. So instead, we decided to be sociable and join other rally members for drinks and a halloumi burger in the yacht club restaurant.

The next day or so we spent being tourists in Stockholm – visiting two contrasting but equally fascinating museums – the Vasa museum with it’s immaculate raised 17th century ship – and the Abba museum and pottering about on ferries and around old buildings.

Daily stats

We had a short run of only 23 nautical miles, using 4 gallons of fuel and 3.2 engine hours in a 4 hours.  Fuel figures seems slightly out, which we reckon is because Andrew took the reading the day before, and Suzanne the one today.  So it was probably somewhere in between!

You can hear about this leg of our journey, on our podcast ‘2 in a boat’ – check out episode 30 – Stormin Stockholm