We left Heiligenhafen after a delicious, but odd, veggie breakfast. Two still warm bread rolls each, Irish butter and slices of brie, mozzarella, pesto, tomatoes and assorted dips in a waterside bakery next to the marina. Hearty fare worthy of the epic to come.
It was a gusty F4 – 5 as we slipped out of our box berth and pointed the stem towards open sea again. Except this time it’s not that open. We were nestled just north of the Fehmarn bridge, a 22m high span that we had to negotiate through with our 17.5m mast.
There should be loads of clearance, but in a moment of false jeopardy worthy of a TV documentary Andrew still couldn’t watch and steered through looking at the floor and crossing his fingers. Of course we were fine. We didn’t come to a crashing halt or cause irreparable damage to the historic monument.
After the bridge the sea calmed down and with the yankee on one side and staysail on the other we made good progress for a couple of hours – this couldn’t last.
The sea became as confused and uncomfortable as a pensioner’s driving. The rain came pouring down and Suzanne disappeared below; there’s no point in two pissed wet through travellers. Andrew started the engine because he’s impatient and was fed up of wallowing around downwind and a couple of hours later we arrived in Rostock.
Suzanne bossed the box berth, getting the ropes on first time and berthing in record time. Andrew got it in the berth nearly straight and only donated a small amount of gelcoat to the glorious German nation.
We’re here, at the start of the Rally, and we’ve a few make and mend days before we set off on Tuesday. Time to service the engine, wash the boat and polish out the scratches… (think we might need more than a few days to get those scratches out…)
Our daily stats
7 hours for 44 Nautical miles, which averages over 6 knots. Nearly our shortest trip but fastest speed.
2 in a boat is our podcast that brings you the sailing and travel world of Suzanne and Andrew on their aged yacht Crystelle Venture.
You’ll join us along the way as we prepare for our longest sail yet, from Dartmouth, UK to St Petersburg, Russia. Our route takes us across the North Sea and around the Baltic this summer, a round trip of about 3000 nautical miles.
With a fab intro music written by our talented nephew, Joseph Turner, and artwork by our equally talented daughter, Jessica Caballero – it’s something of a family affair.
Warts and all live recording of our time sailing across Lyme Bay to Portland. Ever wondered what goes on during those long hours in a small cockpit on a yacht? Now’s your chance to eavesdrop and find out what Andrew and Suzanne get up to!
Just where have our 2 in a boat washed up now? They’ve spotted submarines, been boarded by the Dutch authorities, and now want to buy concrete sheep. Listen in to find out what on earth/on sea, has been going on.
At last our 2 intrepid sailors have made their way to the gateway to the river Elbe and the prospect of the Kiel canal looms. But what are our 2 in a boat talking about? Borkum, bikes and boys! Listen in to hear about their journey from Borkum to Cuxhaven, and all manner of other discussions.
Today is the day our 2 in a boat face one of their biggest fears, and most anticipated parts of their journey to the Baltic – going into the Keil canal (NOK). Find out how they got on in today’s episode.
Today we find our 2 in a boat preparing for the first official leg in their Baltic rally – from Warnemunde, Germany to Bornholm, Denmark. What have they done in the past few days and what are their thoughts on the rally? Join them on Crystelle Venture to catch up with our 2 in a boat.
With the weather not looking its best, we opted not to leave Dartmouth on Sunday, but to take our chances on the right kind of wind, in the right direction, on a cloudy rather than wet day on Monday 17 June.
As a stream of 7 naval picket boats entered Dartmouth harbour, we motored past in the opposite direction, hoisting our mainsail by Dartmouth castle at the mouth of the river, and out into the open sea by 8.30 am. With engine turned off, and our genoa hoisted we set our auto pilot to 77 degrees for the 55 or so nautical miles to Portland harbour, across Lyme Bay.
Knots and knots
Our speed at Mewstone was 8.2 knots, with Andrew claiming top speed of the day at 9.1 knots at around 10 am. It was then time for Suzanne to practice her knots, notably the bowline, which is the most useful of knots according to Andrew. With a watch change each hour, our new AIS to play with and get used to -all that beeping when another vessel was within 5 miles range had to be stopped(!) – time passed quickly.
Our first sighting
At around 1130 we had our first sighting of a dolphin or porpoise. As it was on it’s own, swam under the boat and carried on its way – we think it was probably the latter. Dolphins tend to travel in groups and swim alongside the boat. However Suzanne’s theory that sea birds can often be an indicator that a ‘d’ or ‘p’ – our boat code so we don’t jinx the chance of a sighting – is nearby worked again. Watching an elegant lone sea bird, with a slim silhouette similar to a swallow, led us to see the ‘d’ or ‘p’, otherwise we would have missed it. It came and went in the flash of an eye, and far too quick to catch on camera. Next time we hope!
Rounding Portland Bill
Portland Bill has something of fearsome reputation amongst the sailing fraternity. Lyme Bay is littered with wrecks, it has notorious tidal race which is where a fast moving tide is constricted by some kind of land or sea mass. It looks a bit like the sea is bubbling and boiling. The Swinge was the first of these notorious races that we’ve managed to sail, when we visited Alderney. We’ve learnt, give them as wide a berth as possible. And so it was we were safely past and into Portland Harbour.
Berth for a night
By 6.30 pm we had tied up in our berth for the night, Q15, on the outer pontoon at Portland Marina. A fantastic facility, surrounded by numerous sailing and racing facilities, no doubt boosted by them hosting the sailing at the 2012 Olympics (which we were lucky enough to attend). After dinner at The Boat That Rocks, we took a stroll on the incredible Chesil Beach.
As Andrew went to pack away the stay sail, he discovered a large bee resting in the folds. Clearly exhausted, with no energy to fly away, Suzanne fed it sugar water until it revived. Flying and sounding like a B52 bomber, after half an hour our stowaway took its leave.
Our daily stats
We were underway for 10.5 hours, sailed for 42 miles and motor sailed for 12, with around 2 engine hours, using about 3 gallons of fuel. Our noon position was 50degrees 25.5 N, 02 degrees 56.2 W. You can see the course we steered in the screen shot from AIS below.
After a rest day, we’ll be setting sail for France!