Day 38 – Naked sailing, really!

We woke to a beautiful morning in Klintholm, although the boat was covered in a small guano mountain of little unwanted offerings from the bountiful house martins we had enjoyed watching circle about the boats the night before…

After a quick refuelling stop at the eye-watering price of around £1.50 a litre, in comparison to the 67 pence we paid in Russia, we set off with a gentle northerly wind behind us. 

Once we had turned the corner of Mons to enter the sound we turned off the engine and gently sailed between the islands.

Today was the kind of sailing day you dream of.  Bright sunshine, cloudless sky, a calm sea and a breeze to drift you along.  Bimini up, bikini on – a day of lazing in the sun stretched before us. 

We marvelled at the buoys with their bottle brush tops – just why were they like that and why hadn’t we seen them before.  We watched butterfly after butterfly flutter by the boat, and wondered why.

Within quick succession we had two road bridges to negotiate, and Andrew went under the first without breaking into a sweat – the second there was a moment of hesitation, and it did seem almost close, but we and our mast fitted under both – and we were through.

Here the water was almost like a millpond and the breeze enough for us to chance putting up our asymmetric cruising chute.  The one that makes us look like we’re from Greece.  It worked beautifully, and after we’d reduce the main to stop it blanketing it from the wind, it pulled us along at a creditable 4 knots.  

Not sure if it was the heat that had gone to our heads, but it was at this point, alone in the middle of a shimmering blue sea, drifting along under our mediterranean sail, we decided to try a spot of nude sailing.  And even to go into the sea from our swimming platform.  Both completely unheard of before on Crystelle Venture.  Something of a success.  But whether it will ever be repeated…

Around 4.30pm we prepared our ropes and fenders to enter the harbour at Vejro, a small island less than 2km sq in size. We debated whether we should in fact stop there, as the wind was forecast to shift in the night, and would be blowing into the shallow harbour when we wanted to exit in the morning.  Our only other option was to sail for another hour or so, to an even shallower and smaller harbour, where we shouldn’t have that potential problem with the wind pinning us in.

Eventually we opted to stick with our original plan, a smart move as it turned out, and slowly approached the harbour breakwater. 

As we entered we were pointed to the right side of the harbour, as the left side suffered from too much swell.  Our preparations paid off and we bossed that box berth in front of all the locals, and with the help of the harbour master. 

We promptly got off to pay, and the harbourmaster explained that we were on a private island.  That all the facilities were included, such as bikes, showers, laundry, but the price was a little high as a result – 350 danish krona, – about £40.  We took a short walk up to the restaurant/cafe/shop – bought a couple of ice creams, beers and eggs – ordered fresh bread rolls for collection in the morning, and picked a few blackberries.

As we walked to the shower block later on, we noticed how dark the sky was, and how brightly the stars shone.  What a wonderful spot to end our time in Denmark.  

Our daily stats

Our blissful sail through the Danish archipelago

We had a leisurely 9 hours cruising round the Danish islands, managing to sail for 5, so using only 2 gallons of fuel. We’re sure that would appeal to the owners of Verjoe island who want it to be eco-friendly and self sustaining.  

You can hear more about our sail today in our podcast –  Episode 34 – drifting through Denmark

Day 37 – Farewell Sweden, hello Denmark

Ystad is a cute little place, feeling more Danish than Swedish with a nice little market square and houses reminiscent of the island of Bornholm, which is only 50 miles away, a distance the superfast (and super scary) ferries do in about ninety minutes. 

We left Ystad into a headwind, with a high mackerel sky, which by now is a familiar story.  Hours of battering into lumpy seas motor-sailing our way out of Sweden. 

Sunshine and passing ships broke up the monotony, as ships were a rarity in the archipelago.  Now we’re back in the main Baltic, right alongside the deep water channel, they’ve returned.  Bulk carriers, container ships and the ubiquitous ferries.

Our departure from Swedish waters, into those of the Danish, meant our first changing over of our courtesy flags in somewhile. Andrew, as always, did the honours.

The journey meant we sailed close to the Cliffs of Mons – possibly the closest Denmark has to the white cliffs of Dover, and seemingly quite a tourist attraction on the island of Mons. It is perhaps the highest natural form we’d seen since leaving the UK.

Arriving in Klintholm, on the island of Møn entailed threading through fish stakes, a narrow shallow entrance and berthing alongside in the area reserved for 12-15m boats. 

An alongside berth next to the electricity with the pontoon the same height as our deck.  We paid at the self service machine beside the closed harbour office – which appeared to only open for an hour or so at the weekend.

A kiosk selling Magnum ice creams, late summer sun and fresh Danish pastry for breakfast tomorrow.  We marvelled at the bravery of the lady in the small ‘mini brugsen’ shop who had to put her hand into the glass cabinet abuzz with wasps covering the jammy pastries.

Watching the sun go down, and the house martins swirling round, we caught up with some admin, and watched as the harbour slowly filled with boats.


Our daily stats

Motor sailing means straight line sailing – from Ystad, Sweden to Klintsholm, Denmark

We made 57 nautical miles in 9 and a half hours, averaging 6 knots.  We motor sailed the whole way, using 8 gallons of fuel.

You can hear more in Episode 33 – Wiggling through Denmark of our ‘Two in Boat’ podcast.