Our first priority of the day was to clear out of the EU. This entailed queueing up outside the immigration and customs portacabin on the dock at the marina. This needed all crew to be with the captain when passports were checked, and then only the captain going into the office with the crew list and official boat papers. Lots of stamping, signing, stamping, and signing ensued.
Finally by midday we were ready to leave. A slight debacle with one of the mooring ropes tying itself back onto the mooring ring, meant less than a clean exit – but we managed to recover in order to moor up at the fuelling dock in good order.
Unfortunately Suzanne got a face full of diesel, as the pump needed Andrew to push a button to start it on land, and the nozzle had been left on automatic, unbeknown to us. 15 gallons in, to the tank not Suzanne, and we finally were on our way out of the EU.
Just our luck, another race was on just outside the harbour. Safely skirted with set off under sail but with the wind behind us, progress was slow, so we started to motor sail. After an hour or so, we decided to goose wing using our spinnaker pole, and making a good 5 – 6 knots under sail.
So it was that a stream of rally yachts sailed out of Tallinn, heading towards Russia. We had been given a timeframe in which to arrive at Kronstat, where we were to clear customs and immigration. The slower boats, ourselves included, therefore headed off first. The faster boats had a leisurely extra day in Tallinn.
Around 11am our GPS decided to die on us, never to reappear for the rest of our trip. Luckily Andrew’s tablet and our chart plotter gave us two alternatives. Still, annoying.
We opted not to do an overnight sail, and instead pulled into a tiny harbour, Vergi, the last one available to us in Estonia that would give us easy access to the fairway we must follow into Russia. We spent a pleasant evening having home made pizza on one of the other yachts, and Suzanne made a mango and passion fruit mousse on the go, to take as our contribution. A boozy late night ensued.
It was a beautiful little harbour, but had the worst insect headcount of anywhere we’d encountered so far. And they were vicious – if you were Andrew. Bites came up the size of golf balls.
We had a good days’ run of 55 miles, in just under 9 hours, averaging just under 6 and a half knots. We sailed for 5 hours, and used 3 gallons of fuel.
We’ve no map for this leg, or the next – as we didn’t like to use any data while we were in Russia – no idea what the roaming fees would be – so didn’t even try! So if you’re interested, please do check it out via google!
We left Dihrami as a three boat convoy, slipping lines at 0900 ish and motoring out into the bright Estonian sunshine. The journey was to be straightforward, with no shallow bits, no rocks to hit and no fog. Unfortunately no wind either.
Mains were raised, motoring cones hoisted and onwards we chugged. Another Rally yacht proposed a lunch spot, but on investigating the water was algae ridden and foul, and there were a disturbing number of wrecks on the shoreline and in the hidden depths. A nice idea but the Baltic seems to be full of algal bloom this year.
A little later, and within a few hours of Tallinn the wind filled in, and sails billowed out as we tried to get at least a few hours of sailing in; but it was not to be. It veered and with such a header all we could do was fire up the iron topsail i.e the engine and motor once more.
The entry into Top Marina, host for the sailing events of the 1980 Moscow Olympics, is easy, even with a plump gentleman falling off a paddleboard right in front of us, plenty of room to take evasive action and slide into the Marina.
Another stern mooring buoy. But this time we were prepared. Suzanne hooked it like a pro, walked it to the back as Andrew took in the stern line then walked casually to the front and handed the bowline to Rally control who hooked us on. Fantastic. If Carlsberg made berthings they’d make them like this. A slight rejig of the stern line to straighten the boat up and we were in Tallinn, Estonia’s capital city!
Time to stock up in the fantastic supermarket, carry out some much-needed maintenance, enjoy a crew dinner in the town centre, and visit the seaplane museum!
Our daily stats
We managed a measily one hour of sailing, one of motoring and 5 and half motor sailing, using 5 gallons of fuel. We were underway for 7 and half hours, making 45 nautical miles, averaging over 6 knots. At least the sun was shining!
You can hear about this sail and more in Episode 23 of our podcast ‘2 in a boat’
A beautiful eery damp fog hung thick in the air as we prepared to slip our berth in Kuressaare. It was more than an early morning mist, although the hour was relatively early – 6am.
Our exhilarating entry the previous day was replaced by a painstaking crawl, as we buoy hopped through the narrow, narrow channel towards the open sea.
Things did not go according to plan. The gaps in the buoys widened and the fog thickened to the extent that we couldn’t see the next one, even with Suzanne on look out at the bow. Andrew reduced speed to a crawl and became concerned he was wandering off course. He looked behind to confirm that he was indeed veering off to the left, a fact which was further confirmed as the depth sounder dropped to zero and all forward progress stopped with a shuddering bang as we hit a small piece of Estonia 1.9m underwater.
It is said there are two types of sailor in the Baltic Sea; those who have run aground and those who are about to. We are now firmly in the former. Serious concern was expressed by Suzanne at the amount of water on the cabin floor until she realised it smelled of jasmine green tea and was accompanied by smashed biscuits. Yes, the only casualty was the tea, biscuits and Andrew’s dented pride.
The yacht behind us was slightly alarmed by the sight of us reversing rapidly out of the mist in front of them. They thought perhaps we’d decided to return to the safety and sanctuary of the marina. We radioed to say what had happened and they pressed on, taking the lead.
This is more like it
By nineish the mist had lifted to a beautiful day. For only the second time bikinis and bare chest were in order. Now this is what this trip was supposed to be like! Watching as we past beautiful wooded Baltic islands, the sun beating down, and lying on the cushions in bikini and sun cream.
After lunch both yachts entered the narrow channels, called “leads”, but what we would know as “swatches” or “terrifying shallow small channels”. Marked by buoys these must be followed religiously, i.e. praying, as we had already found out. Rocks, looking deceptively like seals, would appear close to the boat. We were thankful for our electronic charts and the Estonian buoyage.
Flash in the pan
Early afternoon we took the decision to press on further than anticipated. To keep us fortified for the extra hours, Suzanne went below and baked a lemon drizzle cake, using our new measuring jug bought on Visby, and halving Mary Berry’s famous recipe, substituting milk (which we didn’t have) with hot water. It was something of a triumph – moist, delicious and very lemony! Let’s hope it isn’t a ‘flash in the pan’!
Late afternoon the wind was finally in the right direction to allow us to swift off the engine, and round off the day with a two hour reach into harbour at Dihrami, a beautiful small Estonian harbour, where we met up with another rally yacht. The harbour master helped us with our lines, and we handed over 25 euros for the night. There was a great looking fish restaurant over looking the sea beside his office.
A short walk through the fragrant pine forest brought us to a Hansel and Gretel shop, where we bought a couple of beers and Magnum ice creams. The ice creams were eaten by the time we reached the beach, to watch the sunset over Crystelle Venture and drink our beers (Mexican lager imported from the UK..). The day was rounded off with drinks on the other rally yacht, and sharing Suzanne’s cake.
Our daily stats
We took 14 and a half hours to make 92 nautical miles, averaging 6.3 notes. We sailed for 2, motor sailed for 10 and the rest was motoring in and out of the harbours. We used 10 gallons of fuel.
You can hear more about our travels in Estonia in episode 24 – Talking in Tallinn – of our 2 in a boat podcast. Due to go live on 8 September 2019.
It was with only the slightest hangover that hung over Suzanne as we started out from Ventspils at 7am. She stayed up long enough on deck to bring in the fenders and stow the ropes, take a good long stare at the blue and white cow at the harbour entrance, and then disappeared back to bed.
Out of the breakwater, and with a favourable west north westerly wind Andrew put the sails up, turned off the engine, and looked forward to enjoying a fast close reach towards our day’s destination – the marina at Kuressaare.
Not only was the wind favourable, so was the weather with the temperature gauge already at 24 degrees at 8am. It was going to be blistering day on both counts – sailing and sunbathing.
Yes another day, another country – and another first time visit not only to Estonia, but also to its largest island, Saaremaa. With speeds averaging just over 6 knots, it wasn’t long before we could see Latvia behind us and Saaremaa in front.
By quarter to 4 we were making preparations to enter the extremely tight and long lead channel into Kuressaare. Any straying out of the channel could have calamitous consequences. The channel was intermittently flanked by rocks and grassy knolls on which sea birds were rearing their screeching young.
Kuressare is the capital of Saaremaa and the marina must be one of the most spectacularly appointed ones. It is overlooked by the largest medieval moated castle in the Baltic – and it is beautifully maintained and the grounds manicured. It made an already interesting and nerve wracking entrance, even more extraordinary.
Kuressare is twinned with Ronne on Bornholm, and about the same size. Unfortunately we didn’t have enough time to explore, but what we did see has definitely whetted our appetite for a return visit.
An old pro
Today was the day to try out our new boating hook to pick up a stern buoy. The harbour master was already waiting for us on the pontoon and pointed at the allotted buoy. Suzanne stood sentry like on the bow, hook poised and looked like an old-hand, capturing the buoy on the first go. Bow lines were passed to the helpers on shore and Andrew used the winched stern line to manoeuvre us close enough to the jetty to give us access. Boom, done and dusted by 5pm.
It was then a small matter of paying our 25 euros to the harbour master, who presented us with the flashiest and smartest of town literature and map. While Andrew had a shower, Suzanne took the opportunity to try out the harbour bar, and was joined by our rally cruising companions.
Tired, tired, tired
Another boat from the rally had preceded us to the marina, and booked us all in for a meal at a restaurant overlooking the castle, by the side of the moat. After aperitif on their boat, we took the short stroll to our restaurant, and after an hour’s wait for the food, we enjoyed some amazing local fish and specialities.
Over dinner we discussed the various strategies that were being adopted to get to our final destination Tallin. The other boat decided to have a shorter day the next day, and a longer one afterwards. We opted, with our current sailing companions, to break it into to equal days – and around midnight made a decision on our destination and departure time – 6am. Quick look at the charts and weather, and it was off to bed. Tired as tired can be.
Our leg stats
We took 10 hours to make 62 nautical miles, averaging 6.2 knots, not bad considering 8 of those hours were under sail. We used only 2 engine hours and 2 gallons of fuel.
You can hear more about our impressions of sailing in Estonia in Episode 23 of our ‘2 in a boat’ podcast due to launch on 8 September 2019.
While the rest of the rally set sail for the island of Gotska Sandon to view seals and lighthouses, we chose another new country and the prospect of raising a new courtesy flag. Hopefully without any smelly seals.
A cunning plan that would break the leg to Tallin, Estonia into 4 bite size chunks, two legs to our new destination, and two to Tallin – a new country and more of Estonia to explore. No overnight sailing, just long day sails with a bit of time to explore at each new port. What’s not to like?
We were rafted three deep, so after a bit of boat shuffling, we were alongside to fill up with water and hand in our harbour cards. We set off at lunchtime, and ate as we went. For our first leg we decided to break our journey in Farosund, the water that divides Gotland from the island of Faro.
We managed some sailing up the coast of this limestone island, covered in pine trees, and seemingly sparsely populated once we had left the historic city of Visby behind. There was only one incongruous area, as the landscape of limestone rock falls continued on our starboard side. What we thought was an out of place and uncharacteristic city with high rises, turned out to be a massive silo complex for what we guessed must be a cement factory. After all, Gotland produces mortar to send to other cities around the world to repair their ancient limestone monuments and cathedrals, as well as cement.
Sleeping like logs
After several hours we started to follow the buoyed channel into Farosund, as night started to fall. There are three perfectly good harbours, but we chose to anchor, for the first time on this trip, just to the west of the town. It was a beautiful quiet spot and we slept like logs, especially after the bouncy nights in Visby – the middle boat of rafting does seem to get the worst berthing experience.
Off at dawn
Up and off at 5am the next day, as our destination was an hour ahead, and with over 80 nautical miles to go, we knew it would take us a good 14 – 16 hours. As we past the small town of Farosund dwarfed by the bright yellow ferries that connect the two islands of Gotland and Faro, we noticed another of our rally yachts popping out from one of the harbours. We streamed past the two small bird covered islands in the middle of the channel and then were out into the east sea.
Around lunchtime we found ourselves in thick fog, and could no longer see the other boat we were travelling with, apart from the odd ghostly appearance off to our starboard bow. We both kept a good look out and, luckily, there were no other passing ships to avoid. After 2 hours we came back into sunshine.
It was around this point that Suzanne discovered that we didn’t have a full set of Baltic flags. Latvia was missing. Discussion ensued on how a makeshift courtesy flag could be fashioned out of other flags, masking tape and colouring pens. In the end, rather than cause any kind of diplomatic incident with a badly drawn flag, we opted to go without.
The closest port in Latvia is Ventaspil, a commercial port with oil, coal and ferry terminals. We called ahead and were immediately given clearance to enter. An incongruous Greek striped cow stared at us from the breakwater as we entered the outer harbour, and then made way along the starboard side towards the entrance to the fishing and yacht harbour.
We had prepared ourselves for a bow to and pick up a stern buoy berth – and had got out and set up the new hook we had bought at the chandlery in Bornholm. However as we turned the corner into the marina we saw to our dismay that the other yacht was moored up against the wall, with old tyres against it.
We did a quick rejig of ropes and fenders and the harbour master helped us to tie up. Unfortunately we hadn’t realised that the tyres were tied on with steel rope, that scraped away more grey paint. Another small donation to a Baltic country.
While Andrew went for a shower, Suzanne went up to pay for our night’s stay and to practice the little Latvian she’d picked up from google translate. She likes to think it was appreciated. At 25 euros it was one of our more expensive stays, however electricity, showers and waters were included – so probably worked out much the same.
We walked up into the old town for dinner, to a restaurant the harbour master had recommended, and in the brochure he had given us was shown to be number one in some local award. We walked through broad streets with pretty parks, cobbled streets with old wooden houses and ancient doors, and finally found a busy restaurant, with outside seating that was clearly full and very popular.
The waitress spoke perfect english and explained we’d have to wait for a table – which we were more than happy to do. We perused the menu while we waited, and were impressed by the prices. We took a punt on a Latvian sparkling wine, 10 euros a bottle, and it turned out to be so decent, we had a second. Unfortunately, when we checked the label, only for sale in Latvia – and the shop was shut when we walked back to the marina. Probably a good thing, as we have to reduce our alcohol on board before we enter Russia.
The food was tasty, the portions generous. For the four of us, with a starter and a main, two bottles of fizz, and a cup of mint tea – the bill came to just over 70 euros. Bargain – we like Latvia!
Over dinner we discussed our strategy for the next leg of our journey – a respectable departure time of 7am agreed. We then pottered through more of the old town, which was almost deserted – perhaps not surprising in a country of less than 2 million people – and the only noise was that of youngsters on whiney mopeds – in stark contrast to the boom of the Harley Davidsons on Bornholm. Finally we took the riverside walk back to our marina, marvelling at the giant cow en route, and enjoyed a comfortable night dockside.
Our leg stats
Visby to Farosund was just under 7 hours underway, making 38 nautical miles, an average 5.4 knots. Farosund to Ventspils was a longer 13 hour sail of 86 nautical miles, with an average speed of 6.6 knots. A total of just under 16 engine hours in total. So our time to get from Gotland to Latvia was around 20 hours of sailing.
You can hear more about our time in Latvia in episode 22 ‘Loving Latvia’ of our ‘2 in a boat’ podcast, due to go live on 1 September 2019.
Episode 21 hears us chewing the fat on Bornholm and Visby.
2 in a boat is our podcast that brings you the sailing and travel world of Suzanne and Andrew on their aged yacht Crystelle Venture.
You’ll join us along the way as we prepare for our longest sail yet, from Dartmouth, UK to St Petersburg, Russia. Our route takes us across the North Sea and around the Baltic this summer, a round trip of about 3000 nautical miles.
With a fab intro music written by our talented nephew, Joseph Turner, and artwork by our equally talented daughter, Jessica Caballero – it’s something of a family affair.
Warts and all live recording of our time sailing across Lyme Bay to Portland. Ever wondered what goes on during those long hours in a small cockpit on a yacht? Now’s your chance to eavesdrop and find out what Andrew and Suzanne get up to!
Just where have our 2 in a boat washed up now? They’ve spotted submarines, been boarded by the Dutch authorities, and now want to buy concrete sheep. Listen in to find out what on earth/on sea, has been going on.
At last our 2 intrepid sailors have made their way to the gateway to the river Elbe and the prospect of the Kiel canal looms. But what are our 2 in a boat talking about? Borkum, bikes and boys! Listen in to hear about their journey from Borkum to Cuxhaven, and all manner of other discussions.
Today is the day our 2 in a boat face one of their biggest fears, and most anticipated parts of their journey to the Baltic – going into the Keil canal (NOK). Find out how they got on in today’s episode.
Today we find our 2 in a boat preparing for the first official leg in their Baltic rally – from Warnemunde, Germany to Bornholm, Denmark. What have they done in the past few days and what are their thoughts on the rally? Join them on Crystelle Venture to catch up with our 2 in a boat.