Day 30: ‘Scaping Stockholm

Day 30: Tuesday 13 August 2019 – sailing the swedish archipelago – fa

It was the 13 August, luckily not a Friday.

After putting, not enough at it turns out, water in our tanks, we squeezed our way out from between two other rally yachts.  Unfortunately one of those yachts untied and then dropped one of their fenders, when trying to make our exit easier, which resulted in their captain putting her head down between our two boats to retrieve it – as we were reversing.  Scary.

We then refuelled at possibly one of slickest fuels stops ever.  A row of different pumps almost confused Andrew – and the two young men who came out to attach their lines made Angela and Suzanne redundant with their mid ships and stern lines in hand.  Our first time sailing with crew, and our first berthing was a doddle. What service.

This all meant we left Stockholm a little later than anticipated.   We pushed south into the archipelago.  A really nice sail out of the city turned into an uneventful and grinding motorsail into the wind and a choppy sea even as we opted to stay on the inside as much as possible.  Gradually we found the lee of some islands and wiggled through to Nynashamn, bypassing the anchorage and tieing up in the marina.  

We chose the marina rather than anchoring due to a raw water pump that was doing it’s best to turn to spray seawater all over Crystelle Venture’s engine bay.  A quick nip of the centre gland and engine check proved a new pump, strip down or repack wasn’t required.  

Berthing was to booms, a strange invention that requires the boat to nose up to the pontoon while tieing to light floating booms either side.  Not pontoons, as you can’t walk on them.  The trick as we found is to pick booms only slightly wider than the boat.  And these were only slightly wider, needing a firm push to wedge the boat in and then a firmer push to get fenders in.  On leaving we needed to engine reverse out rather than drift back with the wind, as we were tightly held even without ropes in place…

A great marina, with clean facilities including a free sauna.  Definitely somewhere we could have spent longer, although the town was fairly small and without too much character – although their church was light up like a candle and rang out hits bells pretty frequently.

Nynashamn also has a fantastic smoke house on the harbour front. Great selection of cheese and smoked fish – even had english Black Bomber cheddar cheese, which has to be one of the very best.

Smoked fish in hand we congregated in Crystelle Venture for wine, fish and salads.  Together with “the boat following”, previously known as “the boat leading” we made plans to tackle the ominous Draget Kanal the next day, with an 0800 start and a non-spraying engine.

Our daily stats

We were underway for 6 hours, with the wind gusting 5 -6 at times, motor sailing for around 35 nautical miles with roughly 5 and half hours of engine time.

The marina cost 350 Kr including electricity.

You can hear more about our time in Stockholm in our podcast Stormin Stockholm, episode 30 of our 2 in a Boat podcast.

Day 25 – Tourists in Turku

Day 25 – to Turku

Today was the day we reached the destination the last few days had been about.  And Suzanne missed most of the day – struck down with the Helsinki flu bug.  She got up to see us out of the Helsingholm berth and then retired to her pit.

Andrew had booked the berth online in Turku, so knew that it wouldn’t be available until 2pm.  So he enjoyed a very leisurely sail drifting along downwind.  More seals spotted, more beautiful islands and cute painted wooden summer houses.  

Suzanne was kicked out of her sick bed to help with the arrival into Turku – which she didn’t begrudge as it was a great entrance.  A long river, with the castle on the corner as you turned into the main straight through the town.  On the port side the maritime museum, with a number of interesting military ships and an old tall ship berthed alongside.  

The city marina was a short way from this, and before the first low bridge that prevented exploring any further up river.  The box berth was 5m wide, but the actual piles only came up to cockpit and were no where near our stern – so we had to put on springs – which was odd but worked.  

The little cafe/kiosk was also where we paid our fees, 47 euros all included, and picked up the local info.  The toilets were behind the kiosk, and the excellent showers/saunas and laundry were across the road in a former ceramics factory, down in the basement, with exposed stonework and tiles.  

We pottered into town to visit the living museum, the cathedral and grabbed dinner at a vegetarian restaurant beside the river.  A very pleasing town, with life centred on the river.  A great art museum that we didn’t have chance to visit.  And a cool looking castle that we saw only from the outside.

It would have been great to spend a few more days in Turku – but we were on a timetable – so had to content ourselves with the few short hours we had. We hope we get to visit again soon.

Our daily stats

We travelled 32 miles in just under 8 hours making about 4.1 knots, of which over 4 hours was sailing.  We used half a gallon of fuel.

If you want to hear more, check out our ‘Two in a Boat’ podcast, Episode 27 – think we found our viking!