Portland to Dunkirk/Dover

Day 2

Little did I think that today’s sail would take up almost two whole pages in our log book – without even getting to our intended destination – Dunkirk.

Starting out

Things started out well. Andrew’s birthday presents and cooked breakfast done, showered and changed, we had a pleasurable and leisurely start to the day. Even the low cloud, muggy air and occasional spot of rain couldn’t dampen our enthusiasm. Finally we were setting off for France.

Our midday departure timed to get us the best out of the east bound tide to get us up the channel. And just as we left the harbour, a big bee came buzzing onto the boat – I’m convinced it was our stowaway come to see us off.

Slowing down

Progress was slow, with little wind. We gave a wide berth to the Lulworth Firing Range. The range safety officers on the radio were kept busy, constantly asking other yachts and boats to move out of the firing area, which was in use that day. As a result we ended up motor sailing for the first 5 hours or so.

Yes – dolphins!

Andrew spotted the dolphin leaping and travelling backwards first – perhaps it was giving him a birthday display! A pod of around 5 dolphins then came and played around the boat for about 5 minutes. We managed to get some footage – and yes, I did the dolphin squeal – and yes we can now say the word dolphin and not ‘d’ as this was one of our best and closest encounters to date.

Dolphin display for Andrew’s birthday

And we are sailing

Finally the wind picked up, around 5.45pm, and we could turn the engine off and sail. Slowly but surely we started to pick off St Albans’ Head, Poole Bay and harbour, the Isle of Wight (in the dark) with St Catherine’s lighthouse shining her light on us as we past, and the lights of Portsmouth in the distance. And the never ending wind farm off Brighton, that took literally hours and hours to pass.

Birthday dinner was cooked on the move, another tasty Abel and Cole receipe of mushroom, pepper and feta fajitas. Andrew took the night shift, while I put in the earplugs and a pillow over my head to get some sleep. Andrew reefed the main, as the wind picked up, and the seas grew bigger. At around 4am he saw the false dawn, and when I joined him at 5am – the sun really had come up!! He then took himself to bed.

Past Brighton, in the early morning daylight, and then Beachy Head around 9am. A weird mirage seemed to appear of a large city in the middle of the sea, an illusion that turned out to be Dungeness nuclear power station. A huge complex which took an age to get to and to recede into the distance. At this point we were up to just under 10 knots and the wind and the seas increased.

From about 2pm the wind and the seas continued to increase, and our speed maxed out around 11.8 knots at 3.15pm. At this point we made the decision to err on the side of caution, and not press on and cross the channel to Dunkirk – which would have been at least another 5 hours and with the wind pushing us dangerously.

Seeking refuge

And so it was that we sought refuge in Dover harbour. With its heavy ferry traffic we had to call ahead from 2 miles out to get clearance to enter, and then again 200 metres out. We struggled to lower the main sail, in a confused sea state outside the harbour entrance. It was the closest we’ve ever come to white water rafting in Crystelle Venture. It reminded me of our white water rafting days in the Ganges, except if I fell out this time, there was no river bank to be washed up onto.

Shelter from the storm

As the near gale raged on outside the harbour walls, we found peace and calm within the inner harbour at Dover marina. After checking in, and having showers, we had a short stroll to the nearest supermarket (in a petrol station). I had forgotten to stock up with brown sauce for Andrew (!) and the orange squash rations also seemed to be running very low very quickly. Strange place Dover.

Our daily stats

We were both so exhausted by the end of our passage, that we couldn’t agree on exactly how far and how long but the following is more or less right. We were under way for just over 28 hours, covering 160 nautical miles, we motor sailed for just under 6 hours, and sailed the rest. Our average speed on the first day was around 5.2 knots and on the second 6.6 knots. We used 4 gallons of fuel. You can see our route on the AIS chart below. If you want to find out how you can track live, check out the chart on the Crystelle Venture page.

Updated AIS image (as it only covered 24 not the full 28 hours) showing our route from Portland to Dover


Don’t forget you can not only read about our travels, but also listen to them on our podcast – Two in a Boat. We update our blog with details when new episodes are or will be available here. So why not subscribe and see how we are getting on? We’d love to have you on board.

Cool things to do in La Paz, Bolivia

Cool things to do in La Paz

I love La Paz.  It is like no other city I’ve visited.  It appears to cling higgledy-piggledy across an impossibly steep terrain by sheer determination alone.   Below are a few suggestions of things you might like to do if you’re in La Paz for a day or so.  These are just some of my favourites, that combine architecture, art, vistas and food.  What more could you want?

La Paz is the third-largest city in Bolivia by population, at under a million, but the continuing sprawl across every piece of this mountainous valley suggests it will soon reach that milestone figure.

Despite this urban sprawl, at the heart of the city there are still gems of colonial architecture evident from its early foundation in 1548 by Alonso de Mendoza.

Recommendation: Visit San Francisco church and monastery museum


Located in Plaza San Fransisco, a short walk from the main Bus Terminal, or red cable car station Central – 20 bolivianos (Bs) – about £2 – gets you a guided tour around the monastery, including looking down into the church and up to the bell tower, with great views across La Paz.  There are still Franciscan monks living at the monastery so not all parts are accessible.  The monastery and its occupants have played significant roles in various uprising and revolutions in Bolivia, and there are photos and memorabilia from more recent times, as well the colonial era paintings and carvings.

You can enter the San Francisco Church for free – further information can be found here.

Suggested time:  1 – 1.5 hrs


Recommendation:  Take the cable car

It’s the world’s longest and highest urban cable car network – so for that reason alone you shouldn’t miss out on the chance to take a ride.

For those of us who are keen skiers, jumping in a cable car to get to the top of a run is a common place activity.  Do not think that taking a cable car in La Paz is in the same league.  The modern cable car stations, the automatic entry barriers, and climbing into the 8 person cable car is familiar territory, albeit much easier without the ski boots and skis – but the vistas and  panormas are extraordinary.

Travelling over a city that never sleeps is something else, and over distances not many ski cable cars cover.  You’ll hear music and look down to see groups practising their local dances, spot wedding parties having their pictures taken at viewpoints, marvel at the gardens in the well-heeled districts, and be challenged by the state of the poorer ones.  And the vistas are something else!  As you roll over each hill or down into the next valley, the mountains, the lunar landscape, the distant views, are all breathtaking.

The cable car network –  Mi Teleferico – is continually growing with new lines being opened in 2018 and 2019.  Launched in 2014 there are now 8 lines open – all known by their colour.  The first colours, of course, were those in the Bolivian flag, green, red and yellow.  There are now also blue, sky blue (Celeste), white, orange and purple, with coffee and platinum due in 2019.  It’s suggested that by 2030 there could be up to 16 lines.

Open Monday – Saturday from 6am to 11pm and on Sunday from 7am to 9pm the cost is reasonable, around 3 bolivianos one way.  That’s roughly 30 pence.  You buy tickets at the station, and then scan the ticket at the barrier gate.   If there’s more than one of you travelling, you’ll all be included on the one ticket, so you rescan it for each person to go through.

Unfortunately the cable car stations aren’t particularly well sign posted, and most tourist maps aren’t to scale.  If you are unsure, ask a local bus or taxi driver, or even better catch one to take you to the nearest station.  You can pick up a teleferico map from the cable car stations – or download a copy from here.

For some of the key places you’ll want to visit below are some of the nearest cable car stations.

For possibly one of the best views in La Paz, head to Parque Mirador Laikakota, Av del Ejercito which is open from 8.20am to 7pm.

Yellow Line

Red Line

Green Line

  • Estación  Irpawi: Gustu, Zona Sur

Purple Line

Celeste (sky blue) Line

  • Estación Chukiya Marka: Brosso


Recommendation: Visit a cemetery

It may seem a morbid thing to do, and possibly intrusive to european sensibilities, but a visit to the Cementerio General is an intriguing, moving and uplifting experience.  Unlike the Recoleta cemetery in Buenos Aires, Argentina, funerals and burials still take place here, although it is now almost full.  This means that the people of La Paz still have current connections with the occupants, and visit on a regular basis, to read, eat, play music, talk and pray with their deceased loved ones.

It’s the largest cemetery in Bolivia, over 3 kms, and was established in 1826.  It contains tombstones, mausoleums, sarcophagi and row upon row of four story concrete blocks.

The cemetery is located close to the red cable car line, Estacion Teleferico Cementerio.

Suggested time:  1 – 1.5 hrs


Recommendation: Dine at Gustu and Ali Pacha

La Paz has a thriving gastronomic scene and top of the list should be visits to Gustu and Ali Pacha.   Email or book online before you leave for Bolivia, so as not to be disappointed.

I’ve been lucky enough to eat at Gustu twice and Ali Pacha once.  Both were memorable meals, the quality and service were outstanding. As a vegetarian, who occasionally eats fish, these are fantastic restaurants to visit.  Ali Pacha is vegan and Gustu produce both vegetarian and fish tasting menus on request, as well as a good range of choice for vegetarians on their a la carte menu.

If fine dining isn’t your thing, or you just want somewhere reasonable and centrally located, with decent toilets and charging points, then you can’t go far wrong with a visit to Brosso  It’s great if you’re travelling with children, with an extensive play area on the 3rd floor.  It offers a whole range of hot and cold food, including an extensive range of incredible desserts.

Gustu – ‘Meet Bolivia through its products’

Gustu is number 28 on the top 50 list of restaurants in Latin America in 2017. It’s current head chef is also the current title holder of the best female chef in south america.  The restaurant’s vision is the belief they can change the world through food.

Location: Gustu is in Zona Sud, so will mean a cable car ride on the green line to Irpavi, and then a short walk or a cab ride.  It’s easy to get lost, so a cab may be easiest, but it’s not a long walk, if you want to build up an appetite.

Directions: Turn left out of the cable car station Irpavi on the green line, cross over the small river and walk down Calle 12 for 3 blocks until you get to Julio Patino, where you turn right, then take the first left onto Calle 10.

Gustu is actually on Calle 10 (Google maps is wrong, it isn’t on Avenida Costanera – if you hit that street you’ve gone too far), but you have to cross what feels like a dual carriageway, but is actually two separate roads – Av Los Sauces (appropriate name!) and Los Nardos, to continue on Calle 10.

Gustu is on the right hand side, and you’ll usually see a board outside advertising they sell bread (Hay pan).  You go up a short flight of stairs to enter.

Ambience:  The interior is modern, with dark wood and minimal decorative fixtures or fittings.  The reception desk is straight in front of you as you enter, and there is a long bar along the left hand wall with comfy sofas behind the reception desk and opposite the bar.

As you walk to your table you see the kitchen, which is enclosed by a glass wall on 2 sides- so you can see all that is going on.  It is surprisingly small given the amazingly technical food that is produced.

The toilets are at the back on the left, behind a dark curtain.

Food: I’ve had a tasting menu twice, first a vegetarian tasting menu and the second a fish tasting menu.  Both times we’ve had an accompanying wine flight, and shared one between the two of us, but it’s not expensive (about 180 bolivianos), we just don’t drink that much.  And at altitude it’s probably not a great idea either!

As each course is brought out, your waitress will describe the plants and processes behind each plate.  Everything is made from Bolivian ingredients and products. Ask as many questions as you like.  The second time I visited I went with Bolivian friends, and even they learnt a thing or two!

Similarly with the wine, you’ll be told about the grape, the winery and the people behind the wine.  Most of these are a revelation, although the cloudy Japanese/French wine that tasted of feet, and was made that way – was our least favourite.  Our recommendation would be that Gustu don’t serve that, as it takes away from all the other great wines that they serve.

As you’d expect, presentation is excellent, and flavours are sometimes unique.  Given the vast variety of potatoes grown in Bolivia (in excess of 200 and counting) and huge range in climates, they have developed incredible ways of preserving and cooking potatoes.  For example, Chuno, which is naturally freeze dried by leaving out over night in freezing temperatures, and during the day, and then trampling by foot.

You wouldn’t expect there to be local fish or seaweed at this height above sea level.  But you forget Lake Titikaka, which provides not only fish but a type of lake weed that is used to make a kind of tempura.

Price: Gustu is not a cheap restaurant, but for the quality of the food the prices are reasonable.  For the complete experience tasting menu of roughly 7 courses you pay around 500 bolivanos, about £50 per head.  There are other versions available for lunch and dinner, as well as a la carte.  Prices on a la carte range from 44 bolivianos, about £4 for a starter or dessert, and from around 90 – 120 bolivanos for a main course (£9 – 12).  Supporting alcoholic drink flights cost between 185 – 290 bolivianos, or £18 – £30 approximately.


Ali Pacha

Another award winning restaurant, receiving the following awards at the 2017 World Luxury Restaurant awards

  • South American Cuisine Global Winner
  • Best Cocktail Menu Continent Winner
  • Gourmet Vegan Cuisine Continent Winner

Location: Conveniently located in central La Paz on the corner of Calle Colon and Potosi, just a few blocks from both the purple line Obelisco station and Celeste line Chukiay Marika stations.   It has a rather unprepossessing entrance, and you may miss it at first.  The giveaway is that you go down a short flight of stairs to get to the entrance.

Ambience: Despite the slightly off-putting entrance, once downstairs the decor improves, although the premises isn’t large – about half the size of Gustu.  There’s a small reception area as you first enter, and then you weave your way between the tables.  Funky tiles are on the floor, and wood is used throughout to giving the restaurant a rustic and ethnic feel.

Food: This is a vegan restaurant at the highest level, again using the local Bolivian produce and supporting micro producers.  There’s no menu – instead what you get will be a surprise.  All you choose is how many courses you’d like – and then sit back and wait to be delighted.

As with Gustu they expect everyone on the same table to ask for the same menu.

Price: 3 courses -100 Bolivianos – approximately £10; 5 courses – 150 bolivianos – approximately £15, and 7 courses – 200 Bolivanos, approximately £20.  This represents exceptional value for money, as filtered water and sourdough bread is included also.

Accompanying alcoholic and non alcoholic drink flights are also available ranging from 100 – 200 Bolivianos (approximately £10-20)

Suggested time:  1.5 – 2 hours


I hope this has whetted your appetite for La Paz, it’s sights and sounds and flavours.  If you have your own favourite places in La Paz, I’d love to hear about them.


Avoiding altitude sickness

Avoiding altitude sickness

Let’s keep this simple.  I have travelled to La Paz suffering from severe altitude sickness, and I have travelled to La Paz and been fine.  So I can talk from personal experience.

Altitude sickness is extremely unpleasant – your head throbs like it’s going to explode, you vomit and it is way worse than any hangover I’ve ever had.  Your fingers tingle, you can’t catch you breath and walking is exhausting.  Basically it screws up your enjoyment and reduces your ability to join in on any activities you may have planned.

In the Andean mountain range, La Paz is high, at 3640m, and it’s airport, El Alto International, is even higher, at 4,0615m making it the world’s highest international airport.  As my husband loves to tell me, this means it needs a super long runway to take off, extra strong tyres, and the pilots should use oxygen masks.  If you like that kind of thing you can read a pilot’s personal account here.

To put those figures in perspective, the highest mountain in the UK is Ben Nevis at 1,345 metres, and in France Mont Blanc is 4,808 metres.  If this has ‘peaked’ your appetite on the height of mountains in Europe, you can find out more here.

My top tips

  1. Do not travel directly to La Paz from sea level (like I did from Easter Island – doh!)
  2. If you can, arrive at another, lower, location in Boliva e.g. Santa Cruz or Cochabamba, and spend a few days acclimatising before moving on to La Paz
  3. Travel to La Paz by bus, preferably overnight.  This gives your body chance to acclimatise gently and while you sleep.  (I’ll write a separate blog about travelling in Bolivia by bus – which is super cheap and can be super comfy)
  4. Take normal travel sickness pills as you start your journey to La Paz.  This will take the edge off any possible symptoms.
  5. Do not, unless you’ve drunk it regularly before, drink coca tea.  The locals will insist this is the best cure.  It is not, it only makes you worse and increases the amount you vomit – believe me!
  6.  On arrival, take it easy – walk slowly, walk downhill only where possible and avoid climbing up hill – use a bus, cable car or taxi instead.
  7. Listen to your body and respond – don’t soldier on.  Seek medical attention if you’re not sure.  Most hotels, for example, have oxygen available.
  8. Avoid alcohol, and if you must, keep it to small amounts.
  9. Of course check out the latest medical advice

I hope this hasn’t put you off visiting La Paz, as it’s a fabulous place to visit and quite unique. Check out my other posts on cool places to visit in La Paz and La Paz – as high as it gets.

I learnt the hard way, so I hope these tips will help you avoid altitude sickness.  If you have others that have worked for you, and you’d like to share, I’d love to add them to my list – so get in touch via the comments page.

La Paz, Bolivia – as high as it gets?

There’s so much to write about La Paz, but the top three things I think I should cover first are:

Check out my individual blogs as I publish them on each of these topics.

La Paz – a few facts, figures and useful links

La Paz is an amazing city, the seat of government and the defacto capital of Bolivia, although Sucre is actually the constitutional capital.  It is also the highest capital city in the world.  Towering over the city is the impressive mountain Illimani, with triple peaks reaching 6438 metres.

La Paz is the third largest city in Bolivia, and the metropolitan area of La Paz that encompasses La Paz, El Alto and Viacha, is the largest urban population in Bolivia, of around 2.3 million.

The Teleferico, launched in 2014, is the world’s highest cable car network.  Known locally as Mi Teleferico it is currently made up of 8 lines, each given a colour, with a 2 further planned for 2019.  You can read more about this in my blog ‘Cool things to do in La Paz‘.

La Paz is also the gateway to Lake Titikaka and Tiwanaku, both of which are fascinating and unique places to visit, and I’ll cover in my blog on ‘Cool places to visit from La Paz’.  It’s a great place to move onto Peru, or to the other diverse parts of Bolivia, including the salt flats in Uyuni, the silver mines at Potosi, the delights of Sucre and Cochabamba, and the amazonian forest.  I’ll be covering these in later blogs.

So the answer to my headline question, La Paz – as high as it gets? – is a resounding YES!