Day 21: Haapasaari to Porvoo

We couldn’t see those rocks at night!

After our late night shenanigans the night before we didn’t rush to leave Haapasaari.  We were a little shocked when we looked out of our companionway first thing to see just how close and how many  rocks there were round about.  Just how we managed not to hit any is still a mystery.

At 0930 we set off with another rally yacht, to make for the town of Porvoo.  One of the oldest cities in Finland, it promised to be an interesting sail and deep into the Finnish countryside.

The westerly wind gave us a good lift, allowing us to sail – making a good 6 knots and sailing side by side with our companion boat.  

It was a cloudy day, and the wind had a cold bite to it, although the sun did manage to raise the temperature into the low 20s in the afternoon.  

This was our first real taste of the Finnish archipelago, and it met all our expectations.  Islands, big, small, stone and granite, sand and shore, pine trees, and trees and trees.  Cormorants and shags and terns.  And endless blue water.  

And as we sailed up the approach to Porvoo, the sides closed in with reed beds and fen like landscape.  Little culverts and side streams all along the way.  We gently and carefully wove our way up what felt like a river within a swamp, up and up towards Porvoo.  

Our way was heavily marked with buoys to ensure we didn’t stray, and safely guided us into the small marina at Porvoo.  We berthed alongside and paid – for the first time, but not the last, at the local cafe/kiosk for our overnight stay.  It was an eyewaterinw 47 euros, which included power, water, showers, kitchen and laundry.  

The small marina was so shallow there were water lilies in the water.  It nestled close to a road bridge, over which a supermarket was conveniently located. 

We took a walk into town, with beautiful old wooden medieval buildings, and luckily fell upon a restaurant in old barns overlooking the river, with a waitress with impeccable English and great customer service.  The beers were pretty good too. 

We were too late for the bakery, but not too late to see a weird sculpture(?) consisting of old Barbies and other toys naked around a bowl.  The streets were also eerily quiet, the roads too.  Where was everyone?  

Welcome to silent, still Finland.

Our daily stats

We took 9 hours to complete 60 nautical miles, averaging around 6.7 knots, and using 8 gallons of fuel.

You can hear more in our podcast, episode 27 – where the devil does his washing up.

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