A beautiful eery damp fog hung thick in the air as we prepared to slip our berth in Kuressaare. It was more than an early morning mist, although the hour was relatively early – 6am.
Our exhilarating entry the previous day was replaced by a painstaking crawl, as we buoy hopped through the narrow, narrow channel towards the open sea.
Things did not go according to plan. The gaps in the buoys widened and the fog thickened to the extent that we couldn’t see the next one, even with Suzanne on look out at the bow. Andrew reduced speed to a crawl and became concerned he was wandering off course. He looked behind to confirm that he was indeed veering off to the left, a fact which was further confirmed as the depth sounder dropped to zero and all forward progress stopped with a shuddering bang as we hit a small piece of Estonia 1.9m underwater.
It is said there are two types of sailor in the Baltic Sea; those who have run aground and those who are about to. We are now firmly in the former. Serious concern was expressed by Suzanne at the amount of water on the cabin floor until she realised it smelled of jasmine green tea and was accompanied by smashed biscuits. Yes, the only casualty was the tea, biscuits and Andrew’s dented pride.
The yacht behind us was slightly alarmed by the sight of us reversing rapidly out of the mist in front of them. They thought perhaps we’d decided to return to the safety and sanctuary of the marina. We radioed to say what had happened and they pressed on, taking the lead.
This is more like it
By nineish the mist had lifted to a beautiful day. For only the second time bikinis and bare chest were in order. Now this is what this trip was supposed to be like! Watching as we past beautiful wooded Baltic islands, the sun beating down, and lying on the cushions in bikini and sun cream.
After lunch both yachts entered the narrow channels, called “leads”, but what we would know as “swatches” or “terrifying shallow small channels”. Marked by buoys these must be followed religiously, i.e. praying, as we had already found out. Rocks, looking deceptively like seals, would appear close to the boat. We were thankful for our electronic charts and the Estonian buoyage.
Flash in the pan
Early afternoon we took the decision to press on further than anticipated. To keep us fortified for the extra hours, Suzanne went below and baked a lemon drizzle cake, using our new measuring jug bought on Visby, and halving Mary Berry’s famous recipe, substituting milk (which we didn’t have) with hot water. It was something of a triumph – moist, delicious and very lemony! Let’s hope it isn’t a ‘flash in the pan’!
Late afternoon the wind was finally in the right direction to allow us to swift off the engine, and round off the day with a two hour reach into harbour at Dihrami, a beautiful small Estonian harbour, where we met up with another rally yacht. The harbour master helped us with our lines, and we handed over 25 euros for the night. There was a great looking fish restaurant over looking the sea beside his office.
A short walk through the fragrant pine forest brought us to a Hansel and Gretel shop, where we bought a couple of beers and Magnum ice creams. The ice creams were eaten by the time we reached the beach, to watch the sunset over Crystelle Venture and drink our beers (Mexican lager imported from the UK..). The day was rounded off with drinks on the other rally yacht, and sharing Suzanne’s cake.
Our daily stats
We took 14 and a half hours to make 92 nautical miles, averaging 6.3 notes. We sailed for 2, motor sailed for 10 and the rest was motoring in and out of the harbours. We used 10 gallons of fuel.
You can hear more about our travels in Estonia in episode 24 – Talking in Tallinn – of our 2 in a boat podcast. Due to go live on 8 September 2019.